How To DIY Archives | Do It | Retro Active Lifestyle https://retroactivelifestyle.com/category/how-to-diy/ Do Less. Live More. Tue, 22 Oct 2024 17:04:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/retroactivelifestyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cropped-Retro-Active-Lifestyle-Icon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 How To DIY Archives | Do It | Retro Active Lifestyle https://retroactivelifestyle.com/category/how-to-diy/ 32 32 181518531 How To and NOT To Repair an Insta360 One X https://retroactivelifestyle.com/insta360-one-x/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=insta360-one-x https://retroactivelifestyle.com/insta360-one-x/#respond Tue, 22 Oct 2024 15:00:00 +0000 https://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=1765 I replaced the lenses in my Insta360 One X and it didn't all go smoothly. I made this guide so you can learn from my mistakes.

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In the Spring of 2019, I bought two Insta360 One X cameras with a singular purpose in mind: To ride, review, and document bike paths around the country. It turned out to be an overly ambitious endeavor for my limited skill set and resources, so the project was placed on the back burner. 

My two Insta360 One X cameras, however, were not. They saw significant action over the next five years. I often mounted a GoPro to my bike. Even with its wide-angle lens, however, I still had to point it at whatever I wanted to capture. That meant that it often missed things that would happen around me when I was riding. More often, I missed things because I simply wasn’t recording, so naturally, that’s when things happen. Bonnie and I joke that the best way to make sure nothing exciting happens is to hit record. 

The ability to record in all directions simultaneously made the Insta360 One X perfect for bike rides. The one thing I didn’t like about it, though, was that, mounted to my handlebar, it recorded me from a very low angle, which is never a good look. When used with the Insta360 selfie stick, however, it brought the camera up to the level of my face for a more natural image.

My Insta360 One X on a selfie stick, mounted to the front of my bike.

Mounting it to the bike was a challenge, though, or at least I made it a challenge. For some reason, I had the idea to weld a 1/4 – 20 screw to my bike frame. Then, I screwed the selfie stick straight onto it. It worked well enough until it didn’t. Without warning, the screw broke off, sending the Insa360 One X crashing to the ground. One lens was badly scratched on the hard concrete just a few months after I bought it.

My Insta360 One X, attached to a selfie stick, laying on the sidewalk after having fallen off my bike.

There Were No DIY Insta360 One X Repairs Back in 2019

Back then, parts for Insta360 cameras were non-existent, so I had little choice but to send it out for repair. With shipping, it was about half the price of buying a new Insta360 One X to have the lens replaced. I wasn’t happy, but I learned a lesson. 

The invoice for replacing the scratched lens in my Insta360 One X.

I’m An Insta360’s Worst Nightmare

Unfortunately, I still had other lessons to learn. I generally only used one camera at a time, and I liked to use it with a selfie stick. It doesn’t fit easily into a pocket, but I found a clever way to carry it when I wasn’t recording. My pants had hammer loops on each leg. I know a lot of people don’t like hammer loops, but I do. When I was a carpet cleaner, I found them invaluable. I always had a towel tucked into one of them, and they were great for hanging spray bottles.

A white terrycloth towel tucked into the hammer loop on my pants.

They were also a great place to tuck an Insta360 One X on a selfie stick. Not all hammer loops are equal, though, and I discovered the hard way twice that some are bigger than others. I had one of my cameras tucked into my hammer loop as I walked with my family to the park. It was in its protective pouch, but it slipped right out of both the pouch and the loop.

The damage was far less significant than the last time, but one of the lenses was still scratched. Incredibly, I didn’t learn my lesson, and the same thing happened a short time later. I guess it took me two times to learn that lesson, but I still had one more lesson to learn.

My Insta360 One X attached to a selfie stick, tucked into the hammer loop on my pants.

The Big One

Bonnie and I were running to catch a bus. We were going to miss it if we didn’t hurry. My Insta360 One X was tucked into a pocket on the shoulder strap of my backpack because I had discovered that I could record from the forward-facing lens when I was out in public, and no one seemed to notice and, therefore, were not bothered by the camera.

My Insta360 One X tucked into a pocket on the strap of my backpack.

It worked fine when I was walking, but running jostled it too much, and it was ejected onto the sidewalk, where it bounced, flipped, and skidded along the concrete driveway outside the QuikStop. This was by far the most violent and destructive drop yet. Now, both of my Insta360 One Xs were damaged. 

To Fix or Not To Fix?

In another time, I might have just bought a new 360º camera, but this was in the middle of the COVID pandemic, and nobody was coming out with new cameras. GoPro, DJI, Canon, Nikon, and Sony were all stuck in a pre-COVID freeze frame. The newest Insta360 camera I could buy was two years old. I figured new models would be released once all of this pandemic nonsense was over, but who knew when that was going to be? I saw a YouTube video that showed how to fix a crack in an Insta360 One X lens using epoxy, so I tried it, but it didn’t work.

Polishing the lens.

Finally DIY Insta360 One X Repair Is Possible

So, I did some research and discovered that lenses were now available, and for significantly less than the last time I sent one of these out for repair and for a fraction of the cost of a new camera, so I ordered four new lenses from eBay for about $25 each.

I was hesitant to dive into this repair, but once I got the first camera open, it was much less daunting. Getting the camera open took some figuring out, but it wasn’t hard.

How To Replace the lens in an Insta360 One X

  1. Remove the Plastic Insert From the Top of the Insta360 One X

    Using a knife or other flat object, pry this plastic insert out of the top of the camera to expose the two screws underneath.Plastic Insert in top of Insa360 One X.

  2. Remove the Two Screws

    Remove the two screws in the top of the camera.
    Top Screws

  3. Remove the Plastic Insert From the Side

    Just like in step one, use a knife or other flat object to pry the insert from the USB port on the side of the camera.Plastic Insert around USB Port

  4. Remove Screw

    Remove the screw next to the USB port on the side of the camera.
    Screw next to USB port in side of camera.

  5. Remove Screw From Battery Compartment

    Open the door to the battery compartment and remove one screw from the latch side.
    Screw inside battery compartment.

  6. Remove 4 Screws From the Bottom of the Camera

    Remove the four screws holding the plastic insert to the bottom of the camera.
    Four screws in bottom of Insta360 One X

  7. Split Camera Body Apart

    The camera comes apart with a little brute force, with all eight screws removed. The trick is to slide something thin and firm in between the two halves of the case to pry them apart. I used the blade of my pocket knife. It was difficult at first, but once I got it started, it came right apart. 
    Spliting camera body in half.

  8. Remove the Plastic Ring From Around The Lens

    Slide the blade of a knife under the lip of the plastic ring and pry it up.
    Prying the ring around the lens off.

  9. Remove the Old Lens

    The biggest challenge for me was getting the old lens out. I had no idea how it went in and no idea how to get it out. I tried everything I could think of to pry it loose: my pocket knife, the plastic tools that come with a replacement MacBook screen, pliers, and channel locks, but a wood carving chisel ended up being the perfect tool for the job. It worked like it was made for removing lenses. 

    While applying downward pressure on the edge of the lens with the tip of the chisel, I used the thumb on my opposite hand to apply lateral pressure to the back of the chisel to force the lens out of its seat.
    Using a chisel to pry the lens loose.

  10. Remove the Lens From The Other Side

    One lens can be removed without removing the lens module, but to remove the other lens, the module has to come out. It’s really easy to remove. There are just four screws. Remove four screws from lens module.

  11. Disconnect Ribbon Cables

    To remove the ribbon cables, simply pry up the connectors. I used a plastic tool to avoid damaging the circuitry.Disconnect ribbon cable

  12. Remove The Lens Module

    With the four screws removed and the two ribbon cables disconnected, the lens module will lift free.Lens module removed from camera

  13. Remove The Second Lens

    Remove the second lens the same way as the first, but be very careful of the ribbon cables. I got a little too comfortable and, consequently, a bit reckless, and I ended up damaging one of the ribbon cables.
    Removing second lens

  14. If You Damage A Ribbon Cable

    There was no obvious damage to the lens module other than one of the ribbon cables being slightly kinked, but it was enough to prevent the camera from working. It would power on but then freeze. Pushing either button did nothing. All I could do to get off of the frozen screen was to pull the battery out or hold down the power button for a very long time. Holding down the power button to shut off frozen camera
    I put the lens module in the other camera with the same results, so I was certain the problem was with the lens module and not the camera. The good lens module worked perfectly in the camera from which the bad lens module came, so I was doubly certain. 

  15. A New Problem

    With all four lenses replaced, I had a new problem. One of the lenses in the good module was blurry.

    I figured some dust got underneath the lens when I put the new one in, so I took it apart and cleaned it, but it didn’t help. So, I took it apart again, but this time, I used a 10x jeweler’s loup to make sure everything was clean when I put it back together.

    I found some spots on the inner lens, and I was sure that’s what was causing the blurriness.

    I cleaned them off, but it was still blurry. I took the lens apart and cleaned it five times, but the blurriness never improved. I even took the whole lens module apart to see if there was something wrong with the sensor, but there was no obvious problem that I could detect.

  16. Putting The Camera Back Together

    I decided at this point that I would rather have one working camera than 1 1/2 non-working cameras, so I took both modules apart and then put them back together, but I joined the blurry lens and the lens with the bad ribbon cable, and then I paired up the two good lenses.

So, now I have one working camera and one non-working camera, and I’m okay with that… for now.

Two Insta360 One X cameras

One day, I might replace the bad lens module, but I think I would rather spend that money on a camera made in this decade.

You can watch a video of the whole process here:

The post How To and NOT To Repair an Insta360 One X appeared first on Retro Active Lifestyle.

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Retro Dining Chairs – Like New In 6 Easy Steps https://retroactivelifestyle.com/retro-dining-chairs/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=retro-dining-chairs Wed, 14 Jun 2023 15:00:00 +0000 http://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=266 You can recover your old retro dining chairs yourself. It's easy to do and it will save you money! Follow this tutorial to learn how.

The post Retro Dining Chairs – Like New In 6 Easy Steps appeared first on Retro Active Lifestyle.

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We made a video of this whole process in case you learn better by watching than reading.

These retro dining chairs sure saw some action in the 15 years since we bought them. No one could argue that we didn’t get our money’s worth from them. Still, we weren’t ready to part with them just yet, so we decided to give them a new life. It wasn’t as difficult as I feared it might be, and the results are stunning.

This isn’t really a beginner sort of upholstery project, though, so if you’ve never sewed before, you may want to start with a more straightforward project before diving into this style of retro dining chairs.

How To Recover Retro Dining Chairs

  1. Dismantle Your Retro Dining Chairs

    Start by removing the cushions from the frame. There are four screws in the back and 4 in the seat on these chairs, but your chairs may be different.
    Remove the eight screws holding the cushions to the frame.
    8 screws in the palm of my hand

    You will need the screws later, so put them someplace safe.
    8 screws in magnetic dish
    Put the screws someplace where they won’t get lost.

    Next, remove all of the staples holding the vinyl to the base. It’s tedious but necessary. A screwdriver and pliers are all you need to get out all the staples.
    woman removing staples from red vinyl chair backRemove staples with a flat screwdriver and pliers.

  2. Separate Your Old Retro Dining Chair Vinyl Pieces

    Separate the vinyl pieces to use them as templates for the new vinyl. Work your way around the piece cutting the thread with scissors or a seam ripper. But be careful because vinyl is thick, and so is the upholstery thread used to stitch it together. Bonnie broke all of her seam rippers taking apart these chairs, so be careful.
    woman using a seam riper to separate two pieces of red vinylCut the thread along each seam, with scissors or a seam ripper.

    You’ll reuse the welting, so set it aside for now.
    seat back vinyl panel inside outSave this welting cord to reuse

  3. Make Templates For Your New Vinyl Pieces

    Start by laying each piece out on butcher paper and trace around the outside.

    Make notes about the size, orientation, and cuts because things can get confusing when we transfer our templates to the new vinyl later. When tracing the old pieces, make the template slightly bigger than the material to allow for movement in the vinyl after the chair is reassembled. 
    woman tracing around a piece of vinyl on paperTrace around each of your vinyl pieces onto a piece of paper.

    The old boxing and welting material is too deformed to trace accurately, so use it only as a guideline.
    crumpled old welting from a retro dining chairThe old welting and boxing material is too deformed to trace accurately.

    You can use them to get the length you need and the approximate width, but don’t try to trace them onto the paper.
    vinyl seat boxing on butcher paper on pool tableUse the old boxing and welting as a guideline for the length and width only. Don’t try to trace it.

  4. Cut Out Your Retro Dining Chair Templates.

    woman cutting out paper template
    Now you can lay out your patterns. Roll out the new vinyl and trace your templates with a charcoal pencil.

    Alternatively, you can trace the old vinyl pieces directly. When you finish tracing your templates cut out your new vinyl pieces.
    woman tracing paper template onto new vinylTrace your paper template onto your new vinyl.

  5. Sewing The Front Seat Back Panel

    Staple the foam to the front seatback panel. This will hold it in place as you pass the panel through the machine.
    woman stapling foam cushion to vinylStaple the foam insert to the vinyl.

    Follow along the lines in the foam.
    sewing along the lines in the foamSew along the lines in the foam.

    This will create straight lines down the front of the panel, which is part of the style and charm of retro dining chairs, so it’s essential to get this part right. The vertical stitching will keep the material tight to the chair’s back. Without it, there would be a gap between the foam and the vinyl, and it would puff out.
    stitching lines in vinyl seat backFollow the lines in the foam to create these lines in the seat back.

    Repeat the process for all of the stitching lines. Now remove the staples. Next, sew the welting. Start by wrapping the cord with the vinyl and pinning it with a couple of pins towards the end.
    woman inserting pin in vinyl weltingInsert a pin into the vinyl welting and seat panel to hold it together while sewing together.

    You’re sewing everything inside out, so lay your pieces out accordingly. When you attach the back panel, the welting will be folded over, so pin it with the open side facing out.
    vinyl seat back panel inside outLayout and pin your panels inside out.

    Be careful as you sew the welting to the front panel because you don’t want to sew the edge of the foam to the vinyl. Pin it only with a couple of pins at this point because the welting must stretch as you go around the corners.

    Go slow and make sure everything stays lined up and the piping stays inside.
    sewing welting to seat back panelSew the welting to the seatback panel.

  6. Sewing The Back Seat Back Panel

    Pin the back panel at the bottom two corners and the center of the top seam. As you sew around the edge, these pins keep the back panel from moving off-center. The hard part here is staying straight as you move down the seam. The welting makes a little ridge that creates a balancing act. If you fall off the edge, the seam won’t be straight. It’s ok, though, because all of this stitching is hidden when your retro dining chairs are finished.

    Now go around the whole thing again, following the welting to tighten your seam. Make minor cuts in the vinyl along the curved portions without cutting into the stitching. This makes the material more flexible when it’s turned right side out. Set this vinyl aside for now.

  7. Sewing The Seat

    sewing boxing to vinyl seat panelSew boxing to seat panel.

    Because you can’t hide the box seam, you want to make it as even as possible at the back of the panel. Then go all the way around and attach the ends in the middle. Sometimes the way you cut out the material causes the piece to stretch more to one side than the other, and so you end up with more welting material at one end than the other, so make sure the cord does not come all the way to the end of the vinyl. And just like before, we pin the welting with the opening facing out.

    Overlap the two ends of the welting, and start the locking stitch about an inch and a half from the end. Line up the edges of the pieces and then move along the edge of the cord. Move slowly, keeping everything lined up edge to edge as you go. Before you get to the end, cut away the excess cord.
    scissors cutting excess welting cordCut the excess welting cord before you finish sewing.

    Fold one end of the welting into itself and lay the other end on top. Then staple the seam to hold it together while you sew it.
    folding and tucking weltingFold the ends of the welting and overlap the two ends onto each other.

    Don’t stitch the end of the boxing. Fold it over as you did with the welting. Now fold over one end of the boxing and staple it. Lay the other end over the folded end and pin it. Finish the seam, remove the pin, and go around the whole thing again to tighten the seam.
    stapling vinyl to hold in place temporarilyFold the end of the seat boxing over and staple it.

  8. Covering The Cushions

    scissors making relief cuts in vinylUse scissors to make cuts in the corners.
    showing the result of the relief cutsThe cuts will make the vinyl easier to bend when you turn it right side out.

    Working in small sections, staple the vinyl to the seat bottom of your retro dining chair. Pull the material tight from the other side and staple it. Working your way around the whole seat, pull and staple until there is no slack left.
    stapling vinyl to seat baseFold the seat panel over the base, pulling it tight and stapling it in place.

    Then cut out the excess material and tack down the loose bits.
    scissors cutting excess vinyl of seat bottomCut out the excess material.

    Same idea with the seatback. Pull the back panel tight and staple it down.
    stapling foam to seat backStaple the vinyl to the bottom of the seat back.

    Then cut out the excess material from the back panel, fold over the front panel, and staple it over the edge of the back panel.  
    scissors cutting excess vinyl off seat backCut out the excess material.

  9. Clean the Chair Frames


    You could re-chrome the chair frames if you wanted to make them brand new again. But you will have to outsource if you don’t have the equipment required. Or, you can just clean the rust off of them. Most of the rust is on the surface anyway, and so it is easily removed.

    I used Bar Keepers Friend and a wet sponge to scrub the rust off of our retro dining chairs.Cleaning metal with a sponge Gently scrub chair frames with Bar Keepers Friend.
    rinsing metal retro dining chair frame with garden houseRinse off the Bar Keepers friend.

    After a rinse, I used Never Dull to remove rust and polish the chrome. Then I wiped the whole thing down with a clean towel. This process removes most of the rust, but it doesn’t get all. You could remove it all if you wanted to spend the time, but this will all be covered anyway.

    Be careful with the Bar Keepers Friend. It is abrasive and it can remove the chrome plating.
    man squatting down with a can of Never DullWipe the whole frame down with Never Dull.

  10. Put Your Retro Dining Chairs Back Together


    The seat is straightforward. It just has the four screws, but the back is a little more complicated though, but I have a trick to find the screw holes through the vinyl. To find the indentations from the chair cushion, feel along them until you find the four puckered screw holes.

    So now that you’ve found the first screw hole, You can use an awl or an ice pick to poke a hole in the vinyl over the screw hole. Repeat this process on one hole on the opposite side. Now start the first screw but don’t tighten it down all the way.

    Insert the second screw and tighten it down. Move back to the first screw and tighten it down all the way.

    Now use the icepick to easily start the other two holes and install the two screws.
    man with fingers on vinyl chair backFeel the indentations in the foam to find the old screw holes.

    .

That’s it. Your retro dining chairs are finished and ready for use! If you have any questions about any part of this process, please leave them in the comments, and we’ll do our best to answer them. You can also watch this whole process in the video below.

And now that you have beautiful brand-new retro dining chairs, be sure to check out our post about how to clean your vinyl chairs to keep them looking beautiful.

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Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig And A Needlessly Overbuilt Shelf https://retroactivelifestyle.com/porter-cable-4216-dovetail-jig/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=porter-cable-4216-dovetail-jig Wed, 07 Jun 2023 15:01:00 +0000 https://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=1316 I used the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig to cut sliding dovetails into a Jatoba to build a little shelf for a wall mount corkscrew.

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In 2017, I bought the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig because I was building new drawers for my kitchen, and I wanted to make them really sturdy and fancy, the exact opposite of the cheap paper drawers they were replacing. I succeeded. My cheap Home Base (remember them?) cabinets will crumble down around my half-blind, dove-tailed drawers before I ever have a problem with any of the drawers themselves. The Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig does more than just 1/4 half-blind dove-tails, though. That’s why I bought it. I wanted to be able to get my money’s worth out of it, and I believe I’m on my way.

Sometimes a finished product isn’t quite so finished, and it’s up to the user to get it across the line. When I was a kid growing up in the 80s, unfinished furniture stores were big business. Evidently paint or stain was the bulk of the furniture cost back then, so it was worthwhile to buy your furniture unfinished and then take it home and finish it yourself.

These days, products are more likely to need a little help because of poor design or workmanship than someone deliberately dipping out before the job was done. Take for instance this wall-mount corkscrew I found at the Goodwill for $3. What a deal! The first time I used it, however, I got a face full of wine, and not in a conventional way. It was such a spectacular and unexpected mishap that I felt it was worthy of recreating for the world to see. Fortunately, the corkscrew sucked in a consistent and measurable way so that recreating the explosion was no trouble at all.

Wall mounted corkscrew

The problem was that the screw was pushing the cork into the bottle instead of threading itself into the cork. That was partly because the shaft needed to be lubed (that’s what she said) but mostly because there was nothing to set the bottle on. This meant that while the corkscrew was coming down, I had to push the bottle up with as much or more force than I was pushing down with the handle resulting in wine all over the kitchen and all over me.

The simple and obvious solution would have been to simply mount the corkscrew over the countertop. Fortunately for me, that isn’t possible in my kitchen because there is not enough room between the countertop and the cabinets, so I had no choice but to build a little shelf to go under the corkscrew. That’s where my Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig comes in. I thought it would be cool to make the shelf with sliding dovetails on two axes.

I had never made a sliding dovetail before, and this just seemed like the perfect opportunity to try it out. Plus, if it didn’t come out, no one was ever going to see it. At first, I thought it might be a little overkill to overbuild such a little shelf, but it actually needs to be quite sturdy to handle the downward force being applied as the corkscrew winds its way into the cork, so I think the sliding dovetails were the way to go here.

It’s All In The Planning

As with any project, the prep work takes 80% of the time. In this case, it was laying out my cuts and then getting the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig dialed in to make them. Once you get it, though, making your cuts goes quickly. The Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig can simultaneously do the mortises and tenons for dovetails. That saves time and ensures that your dovetails fit perfectly. Unfortunately, you must cut your mortises and tenons for sliding dovetails separately.

Measuring a piece of wood

Since this was my first time, I went slowly, taking off just a little bit of wood with each pass. My joints fit a little looser than I would have liked, but I didn’t worry about it too much since I was gluing them anyway.

Every so often, one must remind oneself of things one already knows. On this project, I was reminded of the importance of marking my pieces of wood. I measured, marked, and drilled four screw holes to align with the studs in the wall. But then, I absent-mindedly glued the piece upside down. Had the screw holes been symmetrical on the piece of wood, it would not have mattered. The screw holes, however, were not symmetrical. Of course, I didn’t discover my mistake until the glue was completely dry, so I had to drill four more holes.

Rather than trying to fill the four extra holes, badly as they would have been, I simply used eight screws and colored the heads with a brown Sharpie. Not an elegant or skillful solution, but it worked. 

Coloring screw heads with a brown sharpie to match the wood

Was It Worthwhile to Use Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig For Such a Simple Project?

Now I have a very sturdy little shelf mounted under my corkscrew. Between it and a little grease on the corkscrew shaft, I now have a functioning bottle opener. It cost $3, and I got the wood for free. Factoring in the cost of the router and the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig I’m deep in the hole. I would have been better off buying a brand-new corkscrew than going this route. Of course, the shelf’s cost will amortize as I make more dovetails, so I’m confident that in the near future, I’ll be back in the black again. I made a video of the whole project, including the reenactment of the wine explosion. You can see it at that link or at the end of this post. Happy making!

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How To Replace Mavic Air Arm: Easy DIY Guide https://retroactivelifestyle.com/mavic-air/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=mavic-air Thu, 10 Dec 2020 01:00:24 +0000 http://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=727 My DJI Mavic Air recently fell out of the sky quite unexpectedly. Its tumble to Earth left the left-rear motor smooshed and deformed and wouldn’t spin freely anymore. I didn’t even think to replace the whole arm on my Mavic Air initially. At first, I tried to see if I could simply replace the motor […]

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My DJI Mavic Air recently fell out of the sky quite unexpectedly. Its tumble to Earth left the left-rear motor smooshed and deformed and wouldn’t spin freely anymore. I didn’t even think to replace the whole arm on my Mavic Air initially.

At first, I tried to see if I could simply replace the motor but a quick search led me to a replacement arm for $27, (though it’s now up to $52.) I decided to replace the Mavic Air arm because besides the motor being damaged the arm was a little crunched from the fall and the landing pad was missing.

When the arm arrived I examined it and saw that it just had three wires coming out of the end of the arm, so I knew that I was going to have to solder them to something inside. Easy enough, so I jumped right in and started tearing down the drone.

How to Replace Mavic Air Arm

  1. Remove The Upper Shell Cover

    The first step in replacing the arm on my DJI Mavic Air was to remove the upper shell cover. Mine is red because Amazon was selling it for $70 less than the black or white ones.

    It pops off easily by sliding a screwdriver under the edge of the plastic and gently prying it up.

    How to replace Mavic Air arm first step. Remove upper shell cover

  2. Remove The Decoration Plate

    Underneath the upper shell cover is a smaller plastic cover called the decoration plate. This one was a little harder to take off because it’s held down with double-sided tape but it is very resilient and it came off with a bit more effort than the outer shell. I slid the blade of my pocket knife under the edge of the plastic, gently prying it up as I worked my way around the plate.Removing the decoration plate

  3. Remove Upper Shell Screws

    With both covers off I had access to all of the screws holding the top case to the chassis. There was one screw covered with a sticker that I had to peel back to get to. I assume that’s there so that if I were to make a warranty claim after I fucked up this repair DJI could tell that I’ve been messing about inside my drone. But the warranty period is well over by now, so it’s fine.

    The screws that hold the arm to the chassis, however, are always accessible without tearing the aircraft down. There is one on the top side of the arm and one on the bottom side.
    There are 10 screws in the upper shell

  4. Remove Circuit Board Screws

    The main circuit board has almost as many screws as the case does. I had to remove them all to get to the motor wires. Then I had to disconnect four cables from the mainboard. They just snap into place, so I was able to pry them loose with the tip of my knife.There are 7 screws in the circuit board

  5. DeSolder The Motor Wires

    This step to replace the Mavic Air arm would be so much easier if it wasn’t for the white blob of glue encasing the solder joints. I had to remove it to desolder the wires. I tried scraping it off with a knife blade, but it didn’t work.

    So I tried heating it with the soldering iron, which helped a little but also smelled bad. It didn’t, however, work well enough to be worth the smell.

    Ultimately I used a 1/4″ chisel to scrape enough of the glue off to get to the wires. I have no doubt that there is a better way to get the glue off, but I don’t know what that way is. Nobody would recommend doing what I did, including myself, but it’s done now, and it worked, and I was able to desolder the three wires and remove the arm.Glue on the motor wires

  6. Solder The New Motor Wires

    From here on out, the process was the reverse of everything I just did to replace the Mavic Air arm. I soldered the three motor wires to the board. Each terminal on the board was labeled for the wires so I didn’t have to guess where each wire went. The only problem was that they labeled the red wire terminal with “G” instead of “R,” but the black and white terminals were labeled properly so it wasn’t a problem.Each terminal is coded for the corresponding wire

  7. Replace The Glue

    I didn’t have any of the white glue that I scraped off before, and I didn’t even know what it was anyway. I did, however, have a glue gun, and since the interior of the Mavic doesn’t get anywhere near the melting point of the hot glue, I figured it would be safe. So, I put a blob of hot glue over the solder joints.Hot glue may not be the right way hot to replace Mavic Air arm, but it worked for me.

  8. Replace All Of The Screws

    Once the glue cooled, I laid the board back down and snapped the cables back into place. Then I replaced all of the screws in the board and in the case.

    Getting the SD slot door in properly was a little tricky. It has two metal tabs that need to line up with two plastic strips in the chassis. After a couple of attempts, I was able to get it in there.

  9. Replace The Outer Shells

    I snapped both the decoration plate and the red shell back onto the aircraft. The double-sided tape was still sticky enough to hold the decoration plate down tight.

  10. Test It Out

    I turned the aircraft on, and it powered up like normal. So then I took it outside for a test flight. It worked like new again!Test flight of the DJI Mavic Air a few feet off the ground

That is how to replace a Mavic Air arm. Or at least that’s how I did it. I probably didn’t do everything the “right way,” but it works, and you can’t argue with results.

I have had no issues after many hours of flight time on the new arm. So, I am confident that the repair was legit.

I was a bit surprised at just how serviceable the Mavic Air is. I would have expected it to be more difficult to do a DIY repair on it, like an iPhone. I always prefer repairing to replacing, especially when we’re talking about things that cost as much as a Mavic Air.

I made a video of the repair. You can watch it down below.

The post How To Replace Mavic Air Arm: Easy DIY Guide appeared first on Retro Active Lifestyle.

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Book With An Old Broken Binding Gets New Life https://retroactivelifestyle.com/book-with-an-old-broken-binding-gets-new-life/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=book-with-an-old-broken-binding-gets-new-life Wed, 28 Oct 2020 00:00:56 +0000 http://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=692 I don’t know the history of this book or even how we came to own it. The only thing I know about the book is that Bonnie’s niece borrowed it once. Then the little tart returned it in this sorry state. It wasn’t in mint condition when she took it but for fucks sake… So […]

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I don’t know the history of this book or even how we came to own it. The only thing I know about the book is that Bonnie’s niece borrowed it once. Then the little tart returned it in this sorry state. It wasn’t in mint condition when she took it but for fucks sake… So it’s sat on our shelves for years and years. I’ve largely avoided it until now to avoid making it any worse than it already is. Plus I had a slew of other books to read making this sad, old, broken one less of a priority.

Why Did I Have So Many Other Books To Read?

About 10 years ago we discovered the marvelous and exciting world of estate sales. We would spend every weekend in strange houses slowly pursuing the effects of the dead. It’s really quite thrilling actually, to be some of the last people to see the way a total stranger lived before their house is flipped and their remaining possessions unceremoniously discarded.

I always found it interesting to see how many people moved into homes in the 1960s and 1970s, decorated them with the latest styles, and then never touched them again. 50 years later the house is a time capsule save for the odd room with boring beige carpet installed after a flood in the 80s or 90s. It’s such an interesting thing to me; to make home decor such a priority and then never revisit it again until the day you die.

Anyway, estate sales are replete with books. Very often you can find the old classics which I never read. I was a terrible student in school and I never read the required reading. I skimmed the book, bought the Clifsnotes at the last minute and B.S.’d my way throght the test. Judge me if you will bit it worked for me. No, that’s total bullshit, it didn’t work for me at all. But now that I’m older I really want to fill in that part of my education. So when I would find an old classic at an estate sale I would buy it. After a few years I had quite a collection of books sitting on the shelf in my closet and everytime I would add another I would say, someday I’m going to get around to reading all these.

Someday 🙄

That “someday” was in early 2018. And I swore that I would not buy, or even read another book that did not come from that shelf. One-by-one I would pull a book off the shelf, read it and throw it away. Not really. I would actually put it in our little library. (We have a little library in our front yard.)

Slowly, over the next couple of years, I would make my way through the pile. Some of the books were quite good. I particularly liked To Kill A Mockingbird, Never Let Me Go, and Great Expectations but everything else that Dickens did was total shit. I read a book by Jules Vern called The Mysterious Island. It was so fucking weird that if they made it into a film it would be an instant cult classic. But generally, I think that most of the so-called “classics” are just awful.

My Misadventure with Huckleberry Finn

One of the few books I actually read in high school was The Adventures of Huckleberry Fin. I liked the book so much that I didn’t return it at the end of the year. I kept it, always planning to read it again someday. For over 20 years I held onto that book and the memory of how much I enjoyed it. When I finally revisited Huck and Jim I realized what a miserable piece of shit that book is.

First of all, it’s like trying to read a foreign language. Or actually, it’s more like trying to talk to a customer who speaks very poor English. You need to know what they’re trying to tell you so you’re concentrating really, really hard to make out their words. It’s just so hard to understand what they’re saying but you can’t just smile and nod and walk away because you have a job to do. He wrote the whole book that way. I’m not sure what was worse, the southern accents or the books ending. I think Twain spent so much time and energy writing this book in some kind of code that he ran out and had to phone in the ending.

A Quarantine Book List Deserving of A Global Pandemic

My quarantine reading list was almost as bad. I started out with Moby Dick. (Does a worse book exist?) I could have tolerated, and even really got into it if it wasn’t for the highly erroneous cetology lessons in every other fucking chapter. Then I moved into The Illiad, The Odyssey, Don Quixote, As You Like It, Macbeth, and The Canterbury Tales. By August I had had all of the “wherefore’s” and “hither’s” and “thou’s” that I could take. I needed a break from antiquity; I needed something written by someone who lived in my lifetime and the only book left on the shelf that fit the bill was the Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test. It was a welcomed change of pace. Of course it hit me differently now, than when I read it 20 years ago. This time it just reminded me of how much I hate drug people.

Now That You’re Up To Speed…

But after the acid test, there was just one book left on the shelf. This poor beat up and broken old book. It’s by Edgar Allen Poe. I knew it wouldn’t make it through a reading so it was going to have to be fixed. Recently, I happened to come across an old suede skirt that would be the perfect material to mend the binding. I cut it to size and used Titebond Quick & Thick Multi-Surface Glue to adhere the leather to the book cover. Now it’s as good as new, except for the story that is. The Story is shit. It seems to be little more than Poe’s stream of consciousness about god knows what. It’s just one-half step above listening to someone recall the dream they had last night.

So I guess the point I’m trying to make is that I spent a little bit of time and effort to fix a shitty book before I read it and knew that it was shitty. And also that most broken books probably aren’t worth saving. You can watch a video of it down below.

https://youtu.be/aDibiSoqWB8

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How To Clean Grease Off Your Kitchen Ceiling https://retroactivelifestyle.com/how-to-clean-grease-off-your-kitchen-ceiling/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-clean-grease-off-your-kitchen-ceiling Wed, 22 Jan 2020 01:00:00 +0000 http://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=400 Prologue I made a video several years ago about cleaning grease and tobacco off a kitchen ceiling. The video demonstrated my process of cleaning a kitchen ceiling. It was not a tutorial about how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. But little did I know that the only thing that viewers of that video […]

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Prologue

I made a video several years ago about cleaning grease and tobacco off a kitchen ceiling. The video demonstrated my process of cleaning a kitchen ceiling. It was not a tutorial about how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. But little did I know that the only thing that viewers of that video wanted to know was what cleaner I used in the video. I made no mention in the video of the cleaner I used partly because it is a commercial cleaning product that I knew the average consumer wouldn’t have access to. So why bother mentioning it?

Well, that video just infuriated people, and they left hateful comments because they wanted to know what I used. So I made a new video about how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling and in this video, I explained exactly what I used. And do you know what happened? People started complaining that they couldn’t find anywhere to buy the cleaner I used. 🤦‍♂️ Exactly what I knew would happen but my conscience is clear because I gave the people exactly what they wanted.

Of course, there’s more than one way to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. And even though I offered suggestions in that second video of other products to use people still want to use the one they can’t have because, well, it’s the best. And so here in this post, I will explain exactly what I use to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling and other products that you can use as well as why they work. I will also walk you through my process that will clean grease as well as tobacco and anyother grime from a kitchen ceiling.

So What Should I Use?

  • Simple Green
  • Formula 409
  • that Purple Degreaser they sell at the big orange store
  • anything that says “degreaser” on the label

All of these and more will work to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. Some will work more quickly than others but they all will eventually soak into the grease and allow you to wipe it off. Patience is the most important qualification in a good cleaner. Of course, we know you don’t have any of that because once you saw that list of chemicals you clicked right off and never even made it to this sentence. And that’s your misfortune because I left out the single best product I have ever come across to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. But I’ll get to that later.

how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling with these degreasers

Let The Chemical Do The Work

Chemicals?! 😱 But I don’t want to use chemicals in my home! I have children and pets and a zero carbon footprint and I only use safe, non-toxic, environmentally friendly cleaning products in my home. That’s all well and good and I sincerely encourage you to continue in that practice. But I will say two things about green cleaners.

The first thing I have to say is that manufacturers of “green” cleaning products are responsible to NOBODY when it comes to labeling their products with words like “natural” and “non-toxic”. There is no regulation regarding “green” cleaners. A manufacturer can put just about whatever they want in a bottle and call it whatever they want. So you shouldn’t feel as comfortable with your “green” cleaners as you do.

But You Still Don’t Want To Use Chemicals To Clean Grease Off Your Kitchen Ceiling

I understand. And so the second thing I have to say about green cleaners is that while legitimately green cleaning products have their place they are not suitable for every job. Most of that sticky mess up there is oil from cooking things in your kitchen. Most of the “green” cleaners you have under your sink are for routine, general maintenance sort of cleaning. They can’t cut through the years of accumulation of thick, oil-based muck. You need something that the grease will absorb; something that will get inside like a Trojan Horse to emulsify the grease from the inside out allowing you to easily rinse it away.

One of the fundamentals of cleaning is that “Like cleans like” meaning that if you have a water-based mess to clean up you need to use a water-based cleaner. Likewise, if you are trying to clean up an oil-based mess like, oh, I don’t know, a greasy kitchen ceiling you need an oil-based cleaner.

Most degreasers (like the aforementioned) are made with solvents called glycol ethers. D-limonene is another common solvent. It’s the active ingredient in “green” degreasers. Since it comes from oranges it sounds very safe and non-toxic but it’s not as safe and non-toxic as it sounds. Products with either of those ingredients will work very well to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling.

The way I see it is this: the grime on your kitchen ceiling probably isn’t any more safe and non-toxic than the cleaners needed to clean it. So you might as well just peel the band-aid and use a product that will get the job done as quickly as possible.

And besides, if you wear PPE and use these chemicals the way they were intended they are perfectly safe.

But Then There’s Always My Way…

Of course, if you want to get really aggressive with the grease you could use the best product I have ever come across to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling: Husky 901 Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser. It’s a glycol ether degreaser with an extra, special ingredient that sets it apart from any other glycol ether degreaser. It’s chock full of potassium hydroxide and that turns an ordinary degreaser into a highly alkaline grease destroying machine. The high alkalinity makes quick work of dissolving grease. Through a process called saponification, it actually turns the grease into soap which further aids in the cleaning! How cool is that!

You’ll be hard-pressed to find any place to buy Husky 901 though. It’s a commercial cleaning product and it’s only available from commercial, janitorial distributors. I only mention it because everyone always wants to know what I use to clean greasy kitchen ceilings. It’s not my fault it’s not available to the general public.

But like I said, home stores, grocery stores, and any other store where you buy your cleaning products will sell a degreaser that will work to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. And now that I’ve told you what to use I’ll tell you how to use it.

This is the best degreaser to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling

How To Clean Grease Off Your Kitchen Ceiling

  1. Protect Your Cabinets

    The very first thing you’re going to want to do is to mask off anything that you don’t want to get cleaner/grease on. Like your expensive Brazilian mahogany cabinets made from the souls of old-growth trees clearcut from an Amazon rain forest, that stood for longer than you can trace your family tree, just to satisfy your need to feel a little bit better than your neighbor.

    Also either move or cover up your Kitchen-Aid, Ninja, Vitamix, and any other appliances that you don’t want to be baptized by ceiling schmoo. Now would be a good time to just take that Show Time Rotisserie out to the trash. Yes, the trash. When was the last time you used it? That’s right never. It’s time to toss it. No, you can’t get anything for it. Everybody bought one, nobody wants the one they bought. There’s no secondary market for these things. Ron saw you coming just accept it and toss that thing.

  2. Hose Down The Ceiling

    This is kind of a tricky thing. You want to soak the grease in cleaner but gravity is going to fight you every step of the way. Some of the cleaners I mentioned before are going to need to be reapplied before they totally emuslify the grease. The better ones, especially Husky 901 (which you won’t be able to find anywhere) will work fast enough to beat the forces of gravity.

    The important thing is to make sure the ceiling stays wet so that the cleaner can fully emulsify the grease. And the best way to do that is to just work in small sections.
    Spray degreaser on ceiling

  3. RInse The Ceiling

    This step can be done in multiple ways. You’ll most likely only have towels and water available to rinse the greasy cleaner from the ceiling.
    Get your towel wet and wipe the ceiling one small section at a time.
    Wipe ceiling
    Rinse your towel thoroughly and often.

    Keep repeating this process over the whole ceiling.

  4. (Optional) Extract Ceiling

    If you have access to an extractor you could use it as I did here. This ceiling was being painted after I finished cleaning it and so it needed to be rinsed completely free of any residual grease or cleaner. As such, I decided that rinsing the ceiling with an extractor would be the best solution.extract ceiling

  5. Dry The Ceiling.

    Drying the ceiling will ensure that there are no spots, residues or streaks left after the cleaning. dry ceiling

That’s How To Clean Grease Off Your Kitchen Ceiling

That’s all there is to it. Now you know how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling. If you are prepping to paint, repeat the process using Tri-Sodium Phosphate instead of a degreaser. TSP will degloss the paint allowing fresh paint to stick to it. Otherwise, your ceiling should be clean and ready to start building a fresh new layer of grease.

Check out this video I made about how to clean grease off your kitchen ceiling.

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How to Clean Vinyl Furniture Fast, Easy and Cheap https://retroactivelifestyle.com/how-to-clean-vinyl-furniture/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=how-to-clean-vinyl-furniture Wed, 14 Nov 2018 01:00:00 +0000 http://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=323 We made a video showing you how to clean vinyl furniture incase you learn better that way. In this post, we will teach you how to clean vinyl furniture the way the professionals do. It’s really easy and fast and it hardly costs anything at all. With this process, you can keep your vinyl furniture […]

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We made a video showing you how to clean vinyl furniture incase you learn better that way.

In this post, we will teach you how to clean vinyl furniture the way the professionals do. It’s really easy and fast and it hardly costs anything at all. With this process, you can keep your vinyl furniture looking great and make it last forever.

How to Clean Vinyl Furniture Fast, Easy and Cheap

  1. Dry Soil Removal

    Start by removing any loose, dry soil. If the piece is dusty or there are crumbs, you’ll want to vacuum the whole thing before applying any kind of cleaner to it. This is an important step to remember when learning how to clean vinyl furniture or anything for that matter. When dry soil gets wet it turns to mud and mud is harder to clean than dry soil.

  2. Emulsify Heavy Soils

    If the piece is not heavily soiled proceed to step 3. Otherwise, step 2 will teach you how to clean vinyl furniture that is heavily soiled. Sometimes when vinyl is not properly cared for it needs extra attention as in the case of the vinyl restaurant booth in the picture below.
    seafoam green vinyl restaurant booth left side dirty and right side cleanThis restaurant booth was heavily soiled and needed an extra deep cleaning to get it as clean as it is on the right.

    I cleaned this booth with a strong alkaline cleaner to remove the grease, mud, and mold that had accumulated on it. In this particular instance, I used Husky 901 Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser. You could use a product like Simple Green or Formula 409 on exceptionally heavy soiling.

    I sprayed the cleaner on and let it dwell for several minutes but didn’t let it dry. Then I scrubbed the whole piece to loosen the soil. Don’t be afraid to use a soft brush to scrub the vinyl to loosen the soil.
    scrubbing stitching on vinyl club chairUse a soft brush to scrub difficult spots like the white stitching on this vinyl club chair.

    With the emulsified soil loose I could wipe the vinyl down with a clean towel. It’s important to not leave any residual cleaner on the vinyl because it could cause the vinyl to dry out and crack. Therefore, after this step proceed to step 3 to rinse all of the alkaline cleaner off with a cleaner made specifically for vinyl.

  3. Clean and Condition

    Most vinyl that had been properly cared for can be cleaned with a vinyl cleaning product like Meguiars #40 Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner. I highly recommend this product to clean vinyl furniture and I used it, clean vinyl professional, for 13 years. It is an excellent cleaner but it also conditions the vinyl to keep it soft and prevent it from cracking. This is the most important part of how to clean vinyl furniture and make it last forever. With conditioning the vinyl it will deteriorate very quickly.

    Spray the vinyl cleaner directly onto the vinyl for heavier soil or onto a clean cloth for lighter soil. For heavier soil the cleaner may need to dwell for a little while in order to break the soil loose.
    man spraying vinyl cleaner on vinyl club chair
    Using a clean towel wipe the vinyl clean, removing all cleaner and soil with it. Be sure to go over the whole piece and wipe down every bit of the vinyl.
    man wiping vinyl club chair with white towel

  4. Repeat As Needed

    Sometimes one cleaning may not be enough, therefore you may need to apply more than one application of cleaner. Other times cleaning just won’t cut it and you’ll have no choice but to recover your vinyl furniture if you want to keep it.

Don’t sit on the piece for a few hours. Residual cleaner left on the vinyl will stain your clothes.

That’s all there is to it. Now you know how to clean vinyl furniture. It’s fast and easy. You can clean your vinyl furniture with this process as often as necessary and your furniture will stay looking new for a lifetime. You can even teach your kids how to clean vinyl furniture and then make it a part of their routine chores. Check out the video below to see this process in action.

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