DIY | Retro Active Lifestyle https://retroactivelifestyle.com/tag/diy/ Do Less. Live More. Tue, 22 Oct 2024 17:04:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/retroactivelifestyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cropped-Retro-Active-Lifestyle-Icon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 DIY | Retro Active Lifestyle https://retroactivelifestyle.com/tag/diy/ 32 32 181518531 How To and NOT To Repair an Insta360 One X https://retroactivelifestyle.com/insta360-one-x/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=insta360-one-x https://retroactivelifestyle.com/insta360-one-x/#respond Tue, 22 Oct 2024 15:00:00 +0000 https://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=1765 I replaced the lenses in my Insta360 One X and it didn't all go smoothly. I made this guide so you can learn from my mistakes.

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In the Spring of 2019, I bought two Insta360 One X cameras with a singular purpose in mind: To ride, review, and document bike paths around the country. It turned out to be an overly ambitious endeavor for my limited skill set and resources, so the project was placed on the back burner. 

My two Insta360 One X cameras, however, were not. They saw significant action over the next five years. I often mounted a GoPro to my bike. Even with its wide-angle lens, however, I still had to point it at whatever I wanted to capture. That meant that it often missed things that would happen around me when I was riding. More often, I missed things because I simply wasn’t recording, so naturally, that’s when things happen. Bonnie and I joke that the best way to make sure nothing exciting happens is to hit record. 

The ability to record in all directions simultaneously made the Insta360 One X perfect for bike rides. The one thing I didn’t like about it, though, was that, mounted to my handlebar, it recorded me from a very low angle, which is never a good look. When used with the Insta360 selfie stick, however, it brought the camera up to the level of my face for a more natural image.

My Insta360 One X on a selfie stick, mounted to the front of my bike.

Mounting it to the bike was a challenge, though, or at least I made it a challenge. For some reason, I had the idea to weld a 1/4 – 20 screw to my bike frame. Then, I screwed the selfie stick straight onto it. It worked well enough until it didn’t. Without warning, the screw broke off, sending the Insa360 One X crashing to the ground. One lens was badly scratched on the hard concrete just a few months after I bought it.

My Insta360 One X, attached to a selfie stick, laying on the sidewalk after having fallen off my bike.

There Were No DIY Insta360 One X Repairs Back in 2019

Back then, parts for Insta360 cameras were non-existent, so I had little choice but to send it out for repair. With shipping, it was about half the price of buying a new Insta360 One X to have the lens replaced. I wasn’t happy, but I learned a lesson. 

The invoice for replacing the scratched lens in my Insta360 One X.

I’m An Insta360’s Worst Nightmare

Unfortunately, I still had other lessons to learn. I generally only used one camera at a time, and I liked to use it with a selfie stick. It doesn’t fit easily into a pocket, but I found a clever way to carry it when I wasn’t recording. My pants had hammer loops on each leg. I know a lot of people don’t like hammer loops, but I do. When I was a carpet cleaner, I found them invaluable. I always had a towel tucked into one of them, and they were great for hanging spray bottles.

A white terrycloth towel tucked into the hammer loop on my pants.

They were also a great place to tuck an Insta360 One X on a selfie stick. Not all hammer loops are equal, though, and I discovered the hard way twice that some are bigger than others. I had one of my cameras tucked into my hammer loop as I walked with my family to the park. It was in its protective pouch, but it slipped right out of both the pouch and the loop.

The damage was far less significant than the last time, but one of the lenses was still scratched. Incredibly, I didn’t learn my lesson, and the same thing happened a short time later. I guess it took me two times to learn that lesson, but I still had one more lesson to learn.

My Insta360 One X attached to a selfie stick, tucked into the hammer loop on my pants.

The Big One

Bonnie and I were running to catch a bus. We were going to miss it if we didn’t hurry. My Insta360 One X was tucked into a pocket on the shoulder strap of my backpack because I had discovered that I could record from the forward-facing lens when I was out in public, and no one seemed to notice and, therefore, were not bothered by the camera.

My Insta360 One X tucked into a pocket on the strap of my backpack.

It worked fine when I was walking, but running jostled it too much, and it was ejected onto the sidewalk, where it bounced, flipped, and skidded along the concrete driveway outside the QuikStop. This was by far the most violent and destructive drop yet. Now, both of my Insta360 One Xs were damaged. 

To Fix or Not To Fix?

In another time, I might have just bought a new 360º camera, but this was in the middle of the COVID pandemic, and nobody was coming out with new cameras. GoPro, DJI, Canon, Nikon, and Sony were all stuck in a pre-COVID freeze frame. The newest Insta360 camera I could buy was two years old. I figured new models would be released once all of this pandemic nonsense was over, but who knew when that was going to be? I saw a YouTube video that showed how to fix a crack in an Insta360 One X lens using epoxy, so I tried it, but it didn’t work.

Polishing the lens.

Finally DIY Insta360 One X Repair Is Possible

So, I did some research and discovered that lenses were now available, and for significantly less than the last time I sent one of these out for repair and for a fraction of the cost of a new camera, so I ordered four new lenses from eBay for about $25 each.

I was hesitant to dive into this repair, but once I got the first camera open, it was much less daunting. Getting the camera open took some figuring out, but it wasn’t hard.

How To Replace the lens in an Insta360 One X

  1. Remove the Plastic Insert From the Top of the Insta360 One X

    Using a knife or other flat object, pry this plastic insert out of the top of the camera to expose the two screws underneath.Plastic Insert in top of Insa360 One X.

  2. Remove the Two Screws

    Remove the two screws in the top of the camera.
    Top Screws

  3. Remove the Plastic Insert From the Side

    Just like in step one, use a knife or other flat object to pry the insert from the USB port on the side of the camera.Plastic Insert around USB Port

  4. Remove Screw

    Remove the screw next to the USB port on the side of the camera.
    Screw next to USB port in side of camera.

  5. Remove Screw From Battery Compartment

    Open the door to the battery compartment and remove one screw from the latch side.
    Screw inside battery compartment.

  6. Remove 4 Screws From the Bottom of the Camera

    Remove the four screws holding the plastic insert to the bottom of the camera.
    Four screws in bottom of Insta360 One X

  7. Split Camera Body Apart

    The camera comes apart with a little brute force, with all eight screws removed. The trick is to slide something thin and firm in between the two halves of the case to pry them apart. I used the blade of my pocket knife. It was difficult at first, but once I got it started, it came right apart. 
    Spliting camera body in half.

  8. Remove the Plastic Ring From Around The Lens

    Slide the blade of a knife under the lip of the plastic ring and pry it up.
    Prying the ring around the lens off.

  9. Remove the Old Lens

    The biggest challenge for me was getting the old lens out. I had no idea how it went in and no idea how to get it out. I tried everything I could think of to pry it loose: my pocket knife, the plastic tools that come with a replacement MacBook screen, pliers, and channel locks, but a wood carving chisel ended up being the perfect tool for the job. It worked like it was made for removing lenses. 

    While applying downward pressure on the edge of the lens with the tip of the chisel, I used the thumb on my opposite hand to apply lateral pressure to the back of the chisel to force the lens out of its seat.
    Using a chisel to pry the lens loose.

  10. Remove the Lens From The Other Side

    One lens can be removed without removing the lens module, but to remove the other lens, the module has to come out. It’s really easy to remove. There are just four screws. Remove four screws from lens module.

  11. Disconnect Ribbon Cables

    To remove the ribbon cables, simply pry up the connectors. I used a plastic tool to avoid damaging the circuitry.Disconnect ribbon cable

  12. Remove The Lens Module

    With the four screws removed and the two ribbon cables disconnected, the lens module will lift free.Lens module removed from camera

  13. Remove The Second Lens

    Remove the second lens the same way as the first, but be very careful of the ribbon cables. I got a little too comfortable and, consequently, a bit reckless, and I ended up damaging one of the ribbon cables.
    Removing second lens

  14. If You Damage A Ribbon Cable

    There was no obvious damage to the lens module other than one of the ribbon cables being slightly kinked, but it was enough to prevent the camera from working. It would power on but then freeze. Pushing either button did nothing. All I could do to get off of the frozen screen was to pull the battery out or hold down the power button for a very long time. Holding down the power button to shut off frozen camera
    I put the lens module in the other camera with the same results, so I was certain the problem was with the lens module and not the camera. The good lens module worked perfectly in the camera from which the bad lens module came, so I was doubly certain. 

  15. A New Problem

    With all four lenses replaced, I had a new problem. One of the lenses in the good module was blurry.

    I figured some dust got underneath the lens when I put the new one in, so I took it apart and cleaned it, but it didn’t help. So, I took it apart again, but this time, I used a 10x jeweler’s loup to make sure everything was clean when I put it back together.

    I found some spots on the inner lens, and I was sure that’s what was causing the blurriness.

    I cleaned them off, but it was still blurry. I took the lens apart and cleaned it five times, but the blurriness never improved. I even took the whole lens module apart to see if there was something wrong with the sensor, but there was no obvious problem that I could detect.

  16. Putting The Camera Back Together

    I decided at this point that I would rather have one working camera than 1 1/2 non-working cameras, so I took both modules apart and then put them back together, but I joined the blurry lens and the lens with the bad ribbon cable, and then I paired up the two good lenses.

So, now I have one working camera and one non-working camera, and I’m okay with that… for now.

Two Insta360 One X cameras

One day, I might replace the bad lens module, but I think I would rather spend that money on a camera made in this decade.

You can watch a video of the whole process here:

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Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig And A Needlessly Overbuilt Shelf https://retroactivelifestyle.com/porter-cable-4216-dovetail-jig/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=porter-cable-4216-dovetail-jig Wed, 07 Jun 2023 15:01:00 +0000 https://retroactivelifestyle.com/?p=1316 I used the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig to cut sliding dovetails into a Jatoba to build a little shelf for a wall mount corkscrew.

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In 2017, I bought the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig because I was building new drawers for my kitchen, and I wanted to make them really sturdy and fancy, the exact opposite of the cheap paper drawers they were replacing. I succeeded. My cheap Home Base (remember them?) cabinets will crumble down around my half-blind, dove-tailed drawers before I ever have a problem with any of the drawers themselves. The Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig does more than just 1/4 half-blind dove-tails, though. That’s why I bought it. I wanted to be able to get my money’s worth out of it, and I believe I’m on my way.

Sometimes a finished product isn’t quite so finished, and it’s up to the user to get it across the line. When I was a kid growing up in the 80s, unfinished furniture stores were big business. Evidently paint or stain was the bulk of the furniture cost back then, so it was worthwhile to buy your furniture unfinished and then take it home and finish it yourself.

These days, products are more likely to need a little help because of poor design or workmanship than someone deliberately dipping out before the job was done. Take for instance this wall-mount corkscrew I found at the Goodwill for $3. What a deal! The first time I used it, however, I got a face full of wine, and not in a conventional way. It was such a spectacular and unexpected mishap that I felt it was worthy of recreating for the world to see. Fortunately, the corkscrew sucked in a consistent and measurable way so that recreating the explosion was no trouble at all.

Wall mounted corkscrew

The problem was that the screw was pushing the cork into the bottle instead of threading itself into the cork. That was partly because the shaft needed to be lubed (that’s what she said) but mostly because there was nothing to set the bottle on. This meant that while the corkscrew was coming down, I had to push the bottle up with as much or more force than I was pushing down with the handle resulting in wine all over the kitchen and all over me.

The simple and obvious solution would have been to simply mount the corkscrew over the countertop. Fortunately for me, that isn’t possible in my kitchen because there is not enough room between the countertop and the cabinets, so I had no choice but to build a little shelf to go under the corkscrew. That’s where my Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig comes in. I thought it would be cool to make the shelf with sliding dovetails on two axes.

I had never made a sliding dovetail before, and this just seemed like the perfect opportunity to try it out. Plus, if it didn’t come out, no one was ever going to see it. At first, I thought it might be a little overkill to overbuild such a little shelf, but it actually needs to be quite sturdy to handle the downward force being applied as the corkscrew winds its way into the cork, so I think the sliding dovetails were the way to go here.

It’s All In The Planning

As with any project, the prep work takes 80% of the time. In this case, it was laying out my cuts and then getting the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig dialed in to make them. Once you get it, though, making your cuts goes quickly. The Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig can simultaneously do the mortises and tenons for dovetails. That saves time and ensures that your dovetails fit perfectly. Unfortunately, you must cut your mortises and tenons for sliding dovetails separately.

Measuring a piece of wood

Since this was my first time, I went slowly, taking off just a little bit of wood with each pass. My joints fit a little looser than I would have liked, but I didn’t worry about it too much since I was gluing them anyway.

Every so often, one must remind oneself of things one already knows. On this project, I was reminded of the importance of marking my pieces of wood. I measured, marked, and drilled four screw holes to align with the studs in the wall. But then, I absent-mindedly glued the piece upside down. Had the screw holes been symmetrical on the piece of wood, it would not have mattered. The screw holes, however, were not symmetrical. Of course, I didn’t discover my mistake until the glue was completely dry, so I had to drill four more holes.

Rather than trying to fill the four extra holes, badly as they would have been, I simply used eight screws and colored the heads with a brown Sharpie. Not an elegant or skillful solution, but it worked. 

Coloring screw heads with a brown sharpie to match the wood

Was It Worthwhile to Use Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig For Such a Simple Project?

Now I have a very sturdy little shelf mounted under my corkscrew. Between it and a little grease on the corkscrew shaft, I now have a functioning bottle opener. It cost $3, and I got the wood for free. Factoring in the cost of the router and the Porter Cable 4216 Dovetail Jig I’m deep in the hole. I would have been better off buying a brand-new corkscrew than going this route. Of course, the shelf’s cost will amortize as I make more dovetails, so I’m confident that in the near future, I’ll be back in the black again. I made a video of the whole project, including the reenactment of the wine explosion. You can see it at that link or at the end of this post. Happy making!

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